Welt shoe



. To all whom t may concern.'

Patented Mey i9, 1925.

` HARRY w. CRooHER, or BosToN, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT SHOE.

IApplication lcd February 20, 1925. Serial No. 10,470.

Be it known that I, HARRY WV. CROOKER, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Sulolk and Statev of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in lVelt Shoes, of which the following is aspecification.

' vThis invention relates to boots and shoes designed for the corrective treatment of the foot and more particularly to the manufacture'of welt shoes having an insole adapted to the relief of such infirmities as require J special support of the metatarsal and longitudinal arches of the foot.. Accordingly the invention comprehendsa novel weltinsole as will be understood from the following .description by those skilled in the art, the

and the boot or shoehaving such insole as a f feature.

It is a. particular object of the present invention to produce a shoe which may be worn with relief by persons having suchfoot in'rinities as metatarsalgia and the like.`r due to weakness-of the transverse arch of the foot; but` which is so constructed" that relief may also be obtained from pes planus, due to weakness of the longitudinal arch,

popularly known as flat-foot. Frequentlyu the same patient requires correction for both inirmities andthis is provided for .by the present invention.

lVith this .object in .view an important.

-1ine, but they may feature ofthe inventionA contemplates a type of shoe having provision for A'the relief ofone or more of theinrmities referred to, as may be requisite 1n an;r particular case, without change inits design: This 1s accomplished by buildinginto the shoe an insole so constructed thatA the salesman in theshoe store may manipulate it and combine .with it such corrective' elements as may vbe 'neces' saryto suitthe particular requirements of the yprospective purchaser.

More particularly aV pocket is provided in the insole-having` a mouth, readily accessible after the shoe-has been built, and into -which.

a pad, arch support or other't corrective element may be `thrust as may be required. The s/ize lofl the" pocket 'rs Eauch that the remedial pad-or other support may be correctly positioned to relieve nthe' particular infirmity ofthe wearer of the shoe, and the proper'longitudinal` location of the correo:

tive-elementisdetermined by a" definite limi-l tation ofthe forward end of the pocket.

Y To the accomplishment of the above object andsuch others as may hereinafter, appear,

invention comprises the features and combina tion of parts hereinafter described and then particularly pointed out in the appended claimsl The preferred form of the-.invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which,

Figure l is ya view of the novel shoe, in

cross section, with a` remedial pad associated with the insole. on a cplane that would pass throughv the metatars'al pocket of a left foot. y

Fig. 2 represents a cross section through This view is taken the shank of the novel shoe, the mouth of the t remedial pad pocket being shown opened by lifting the entire heel and shank portion of the sock face insole layer` from the urider layer. Q

Figi 3 is `a view of the rib side of one type of insole (that for a left shoe being shown) that may be employed,` the curved dotted line indicating dry-thread stitching which forms `the forward limitation of a pocket, for .receiving the .remedial pads. In thisview .a remedial pad and a steel shank are both shown -within theinsole/by a dotted each of the other.

Fig. 4 is a perspective view showing the grain side` or sock face of the insole shown in Fig. 2.A In-,thisview another type of remedial pad isl shown within the pocket `bounded forwardly by the dry-thread stitching.

Figs. 5 and6 are views, in crosssection,l

lthrough the shank of the type of insole shown by Fig. 3, illustrating certain stepsdvI 95 of its manufacture, and

.pF-ig. 7 is a perspective viewof onetype of remedial pad.'

In he embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing the Goodyear welt shoe is shown having` incorporated afreinforced insole'of the Economy type, and this type of sole will be utilized to explain the nature and; purpose of the year 'welt shoes having other types' of re- 3 f' invention. Those ,skilled inthe art,wil l recognize, However, that the novel features be used yindependently A of the invention may betembodied' in Good- I infor'ced,` manufactured or othenlaminated insoles.

The Lnovel y'insole win be desrib'ed arse tio and then its manner of incorporation `in the shoe will be explained, providing for its manipulation in the completed shoe to transform an ordinariv shoe into a shoe for correcting such inlirmities as have heen referred to.

.'eferring lirst to lfig. i', which, in certain particulars. illustrates the. rihhed side. of a completed lCeonom)v type iusole.fsuch as is disclosed in Letterslateutof the United States to Albert ll. Johnson. No. 849,245, dated April 2. 1907, it will he observed that the hody l0 of the insole is provided with a marginal rile 1Q throughout the shank and fore part as is 'requisite in the manufacture of Goodyear Welt shoes. The hlank is fitted hy producing a marginal lip 14 and a parallel marginal channel flap 16 joined at their bases to the between-substance l5. The lip and flap in the usual process of manufacture are then raised. cemented together and finally reinforced hv the application oi a sheet of reinforcingr material 20. such as cotton duck, to the rihhed tace oi the insole.

in the .present instance. hefore the lipturning and reinforcing operations occur. the insole is split troni-:the heel end toward the toe to a point forward of the hall line. as shown host hy llig. 4. rlhis operation may convenientliv he performed with a handknite well known in the art tor such purposes. Care is taken to feed the insole to the hand-knife in such a plane that the slit if. (Fig. 5) will produce an upper layer 2t somewhat heavier (of greater thicknesS) than theunder or rihhcd layer QG. rllhe upper laver 25e is the grain side 'ot the insole and Aterms the sock surface. when huilt into a shoe. t also iiorms the croota of the metatarsal pocket 2t that forms the important feature oi this invention. For these reasons it should he as strong as possihle to provide for n'ear and at'ord protection. At the same time the slit 2Q- must hein a plane helow (Figs. 5 and the hetn'een-snhstancc l5 so as to provide a Vieather 17 ot adequate strength to support the Welt 19. This is highly1 important because if the feather is too thin. or if the slit is made in the plane et the hetween-suhstance. the shoe will quickly-lose its shape. The feather is a highl)7 important part of a Welt insole and hy split ting at. as shown hy -Figs. 5 and (i. the mlrantages hereinatter dcscrihed may he secured while ject preserving all the adrantagcs ot a Well made Goodyear welt shoe. The tact that each 'layer is ot the Jfull width et the insole is an iin'iortant taeter on shape,A

insurance.

The forward end of the slit Q2 indicated hy the transverse dotted line QS or. Figs. and il. rllhis is somewhat Vtorward ot the hall line so as to provide 'tor an insole pocketl hetween the tiro layers that extends beneath ne metatarsal arch ol: the toot, in order to in the shoe in the usual manner. Upper niaprevent enlargement of the pocket Ql hy a further splitting apartl of the layers 24 and 26, under the strains placed on the shoe while in use, and also in order to definitely determine the forward limitations, or houndary ot' the pocket, the two layers are sccured together adjacent the fore end ot the slit This securenient comprises a line ot' duiwthread stitchingl 30 through both layers. applied either before, or alter rein '77, forcing as ma)Y he deemed desirahle.y that extends in a curve, across the insole and rearward in the channel for a short distance (see Fig. 8). hut not into the shank of the insole, leaving the two'layers wholly nnconnected at hoth margins throughout the shank and heel-seat. The stitching 30 tollows generally the, tor 'ardends of the bones ot' the metatarsal areh of the foot and forms the 'forward limitation of a pocket to the rear thereotl that underlies the entire metatarsal area. lleside affording a definite houudarx7 at. the Jforward end of the pocket 2l the stitchingr etfectually prevents further splitting otl the insole. at. the 'forward end ot the slit 22 when the insole is severely lexed hai-k and tortil, in Walking. The formation ot' the insole having heen completed. as explained, it is incorporated as terials iS are lasted in over the feather l'. the welt l!) is inseamed to the seWing-rih ll, cork or other filling 23 is applied it necessary. and an' outsole 25 is stitched to the n'elt lil (Fig. l). -`f

During the process of assembling Jthe insole and upper on the last a thin heel-pinze lll ot steel. or other suitable metal. is in ed hctn'een the tivo lajf'ers 2 i heel-seat. as imlieated hy l heel-plate remains in this po the remainder of the shoemaking pro including the heel-attaching ope 't tion, lasting the upper at the, heel the points the lasting tacks are clenched on the plaie 3l against the inner surface of the insole layer 2G. n the heel-seat nailing and heelattaching operations the points ot the ab taching nails are clenched in like manner against the inner surface of the insole layer QG. rthe heel-plate 31 may he removed after the, heel is attached, the unsecured soci.; layer 2-1- ot' the insole hcing lifted from I under layer 2G ior `this purpose. At i si K time. or later. a heel pad. which may he f j' usual piece ot telt. is cemented on the l seat ot the, under insoie layer F26 over exposed clenched e l tl .n and heel nails. machine-analice' upper insole la t igain laid dov l; on the under Iz ver i ii sannita. turn-w a tine custom-hu i. rticularljv pointed oui i .i

surface provides lil shire the uien-r or ser' heel-seat. it is i in the, wanpteted layer 24 of the insole is wholly unconnected to the under layer 26 rearward from the ends ofthe stitching 30, that defines the forward comfort to the wearer of the shoe.

Infirmities of the `foot may be placed inA end of the metatarsal pocket 21, throughout the entire shank and heel-seat.

The under layer 26 is firmly held to th outsole by the inseam and outseam but, due to the construction just described, the entire rear portion of the upper layer '24 may be freely lifted therefrom at will. By reaching in to the completed shoe and starting at the i-niier side of the shank where there is more rooin to insert the fingers between the two layers (see Fig. 2), the upper layer of the insole may quickly be drawn up and curled forward into the lacing slit of a bal shoe, or over the vamp of an oxford or pump, (see dot and dash lines on Fig. 4), thus `exposing the metatarsalpocket 21 and perinitting'an easy insertion of a remedial pad lin such position as may be desirable for-the cure of a particular foot infirmity, as will now be describedn When the insole layer 24 is lziid back upon the under layer 26, vafter completing a pa-d insertiomits material thickness acts to mold the pad to the round'-v ed shape (Fig. 1) that affordsthe greatest two general groups, those due to a weakness of the metatarsal arch and those due to a weakness of the longitudinal arch. The manner in which the insole `is manipulated to correct some of the foot infirmities re sulting from such weak arches will now be described. f y

Morton toe," a form of metatarsalgia', is

a condition resulting frointlie fourth metatarsal droppingT to alower plane than is normal for this bone, causing painful pressure on one or more of the plantar nerves. .Re-

. -licf from this pressure may be obtained-by a wedge under the extreme outervsideof the nietatarsal pocket .supporting the fourth nietatarsal at a point back of the forward ends or heads of the three central bones which form this pocket. Accordingly a pad l 32 having the characteristic form shown by Fig. 7 is inserted in the its opened mouth and t ien' positioned as shown bygdotted lines on Fig. 4 at the outer Y iiietatarsal arch.

edge of the mctatarsal pocket, with a point-l ed end forward under the weakened bone so that this bone is raisedfand supported in `its correct relation to the other bones of the Metatarsalgia is the result of weakened 'muscles and ligaments that allow Athe second, Athird and fourth nietatarsals to drop. into allower plane than the first and fifth. 'This alsocausespainful pressure on one or more ofthe plantarnerves which is relieved only by restoring the nietatarsal arch to its nati ural formation. In correctn this inirmity,

a remedial pad 34, ofthe ornishown by ocket 21 through dotted lines in Fig. 3, is inserted inthe pocketj21 and placed centrally' thereof, or below the central portion of the inetatarsal poclket, thus supporting and restoring vthe arc i.

' Pes planus is the well known fiati-foot and involvesa breaking down of he longitudinal arch of the foot due to Weakness of the muscles and ligaments. This lcondition may be relieved -by placing a light,v steel shankBG, indicated by dottedlines in Fig. 3, under the centralportion of this arch. Such a shankniay readily be inserted in th'e "pi-oper location in'the rearportion of the pocket 2l and then tacked in place.

The above explanation will indicate the manner in which various foot infirmities'. are

corrected or relieved by ineansof the present Y invention. it being understood'that the particular infirinities described are only by way of example.` Attention is called especially to the size of the pocket 2l i. e., the considerable areaof the face of the insole body over which it extends. videsA a single insole pocket whichinay be utilized for the reception of the different 'remedial elements for the correction of all known fooi'J infirmities, with the advantage, that a special insole need not be constructed for correcting each infirmity. L' Attention is especially called to thel fact that all this provision is made in a regularv insole adapted to be incorporated in the shoe during its manufactiire,'and'so. constructed that it can be utilized for this purpose after it has been' made -a part of the shoe. Having the shoe with the novel insole built into it, it only This construction proremains to kselect the proper corrective clei ment and then position -it correctly within the pocket. TheA stitching 30 eectually prevents the remedialpad from creeping for-- ward'and then becoming misplaced. and the size of the pocket pe'rmits ample ad]ustmen t to siiitthe form of the wearers foot, which may have short toes anda long archor vice versa..4 The n ature and construction-of the pads may be varied as becomes desirable.

substantially equal lthickness of the two layers, together with their free margins at i both sides, facilitates the'work of pad insertion. Obviously an unreinforced welt insole may be employed if desired', and the invention is not tol be limited to any special feature of the illustrated embodiment except as specified in the appended claims.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and the preferred construction-of the insole, the shoe, and the process of their manufacture having been specifically described, what is claimed as line of stitching extending in a curve transvcrsely across the insole(` Yfollowing generally the forward ends ot' the bones of the meta- 'tarsai arch of the foot, thereby forming a access to the pocket being obtained by lifting the rear portion of the upper layer from the lower layer; upper materials and a welt se` 'ed tosaid rib on the under layer; an ole secured to said welt and to said under layer only at its heel end; and a heel secured to the outsole and said connected insole layer.

shoe, of the type having a metaioclie't holding a remedial pad, comiii a. "boed insole having a const-ruc- 1. A Welt shoe, of the type having a meta-` pocket adapted to hold said remedial pad tion that provides two separable layers at the heel-seat, shank and through the fore part to a point forward of the ball-line, said layers being of equal Width at the shank and being connected forward of the ball- 'line' by a line of stitching extending in a curve transversely across the insole, following generally the forward ends of the bones of the inetatarsal arch of the foot5 thereby forming a pocket adapted to hold said re! medial pad, access to the pocket for inserting said pad being obtained by separating the layers throughout the heel-seat and shank; upper materials and a welt secured to said rib; an outsole secured to said Welt and to the adjacent insole layer at its heel end; and a heel secured to the outsole and said connected insole layer.

3. rlhe method of making Welt shoes which comprises p1 eparing an insole by channeling and lip-turning to form a sewing rib, by splittingrom its heel end to a point forward of the balldine in a plane intermediate the base of the rib and its unribbed face and by securing together the two layers thus produced by a transverse' line of stitching at the fore end or' said split; inserting a metal heel-plate between said layers; as-

sernbling said insole with an upper on last; lasting9 Welting, outsole attaching and heel attaching with said heel-plate in place; and thereafter removing said heel-plate leaving said two insole layers separate and unsecured 'to each other rearward from said transverse stitchirnT to the heel ends thereof.

Y Til. CROGKER. 

